## Notes - [[Lattice Training]] talks about how to break the v5 plateau - Average male finger strength in half crimp - 20mm + 32% bodyweight - Project boulder session - 3 challenging boulders - 10 minutes per boulder - 5 By 3 SI - 5 Boulders - Repeat each boulder 3 times - Rest 2.5 minutes between each rep - Rest 5 minutes between boulders - Skill practice - Pick something I'm bad at (for example, narrow compression) - Create my own problem - Strength training - Mitigate injury - Average male pull up, +35% bodyweight (65 pounds) - Supplementary exercises - Rotator cuff - Hip flexor raises - Flexibility/mobility - Extend slowly, 2-3 seconds - Pause at end range for time--this is the main driver of increasing flexibility, 2 seconds - Progressive overload to increase intensity - Poses - [[Butterfly Stretch]] - [[Seated Pancake]] - [[Revolver Stretch]] - Seated, one foot in, one foot out, bend over to extended foot without rotating trunk - Only do 1-2 times per week - Light weights